Hey cocoa heads!
One of my favorite chocolate companies is Chocolat Bonnat, based in the small industrial town of Voiron, France.
They’ve been making chocolate for over 170 years (!) and started making single origin bars in 1904. They’re one of the oldest chocolate factories in the world.
Here’s a great video that gets into their story
(It’s in French, but you can turn on auto-translated subtitles)
About their chocolate
With their rich history, it’s no surprise they’ve been working some of the same farms since they first opened in the 1880s.
Like most French (and European) chocolates, it’s high in cocoa butter which is added in addition to what’s naturally found in the cocoa beans. I find that quite enjoyable as it makes the chocolate much creamier and helps balance some of the more intense flavors. All of the bars I tasted are 75%.
Their style is in stark contrast to the two ingredient trend for American chocolate makers which see the added cocoa butter as diluting the natural flavors found in the bean. I’m a fan of both and go back and forth depending on what I’m looking for at the moment.
I plan on visiting their factory someday which looks very beautiful. Their chocolate seems to be widely available in France and less so in the US outside of specialty chocolate shops like The Meadow (New York, Portland) and Chocolate Covered (San Francisco). I found their bars in the French grocery store Monsieur Marcel in Los Angeles at The Grove’s Farmers Market. If you’re traveling to any of those places, I would highly recommend picking up a few bars.
A look inside their shop
Here’s a few photos of their main storefront in Voiron.
And here’s one more video of their factory. This one has great shots of the machines they use in action.
I’ve seen their bars sell in the $15-20 range in the US. That sounds pricey but it’s important to note that they’re 100g bars which is close to twice as big as your average high quality bar. So I find it a great deal, especially for the quality.
1. Les Sirènes - Philippines
Nose: There’s very little happening with almost no smell which is crazy for a 75% dark chocolate bar. If it wasn't for the other bars, I'd have assumed something was off with my sense of smell. There’s just a hint of sugar and cocoa butter and that's it.
Mouth: I pick up dark roasted flavors balanced by the delicateness of the cocoa butter. It’s really nice and lacking in any bitterness which along with the mild flavor is unusual for a 75% bar (though the added cocoa butter is clearly having an impact on mellowing those flavors).
There’s hints of fluffy slightly cultured butter, sweetness and pear fruitiness along with a unique flavor curving in at the finish that’s best described as a chocolaty granola. This has to be one of the most simple to enjoy dark bars I can remember having. It's silky smooth and has a structured elegance that feels effortless. This is a very enjoyable chocolate!
Rating: 4.5/5
2. El Castillero - Nicaragua
Nose: There’s flavors of sugar, cocoa butter, pepper and cinnamon, some sourness, and a little bit of floralness (mostly masked by the spices) coming through.
Mouth: A pleasant instant strawberry cake flavor hits you, followed by ground espresso shortly after. It's an intense journey. The finish and aftertaste is much more mild with the espresso flavors and cocoa butter lingering.
This bar is really interesting though the flavors aren't for me. And of course, that doesn't mean that someone else might not love it. I appreciate a well made strongly opinionated bar and this is one that will get people talking. It feels like a good mid-day chocolate to enjoy after lunch with friends.
Rating: 3.5/5
3. Madre de Dios - Peru
Nose: I’m picking up spices, coffee grounds, and a slight fruit smell.
Mouth: The first thing I notice is how soft and gentle it is on the melt. Marshmallow flavor is super strong with a hint of red grape skin. It’s surprisingly simple (in a good way) and doesn't have a ton of flavors clashing together (which is what I would have assumed from the more complex nose).
It’s very enjoyable and the pleasant tastes lingers for a while which makes me want to pair it with a strong earthy and more complexly flavored red wine. This bar would make a great gift because I can see any dark chocolate fan enjoying it.
Rating: 4/5
That’s it for now!
I heard that Dandelion Chocolate from San Francisco just released their first Hawaiian bar which probably will be up next.